My original plan this morning was to rise with the sun, breathe in the crisp mountain air, and fire up my butane stove to make some instant coffee and hot oatmeal. But then I thought—to heck with it. I packed up and drove into Salida, CO to find a good coffee shop and grab a breakfast burrito instead. And let me tell you, no regrets. It hit the spot.

Salida is exactly the kind of town I remembered from my Great Divide Mountain Bike Ride back in 2019. That trip brought me through here tired, sore, and in need of a break—and some repairs. I stayed at a local hostel and rolled into a bike shop downtown. Not only did they recognize that I was just passing through, they bumped me to the front of the repair queue and swapped out my grinding bottom bracket, chainring, and tires. I was so grateful.

Even my gear got some attention. I was having trouble with my frame bag, and the bike shop pointed me to a local gear company down the street that actually makes bikepacking bags. I walked in and they treated me like family. It left a lasting impression, and I remember thinking: If we ever leave Bend, I could see myself landing here.

Today, I found myself back at that same bike shop. My derailleur battery had died, and once again, they stepped up. The technician dug through a pile of parts to find a protective derailleur cap that should prevent the issue from happening again. I bought a new charging cradle and cable, plus a spare battery. I plugged everything in, got a full charge, and later in the day, unloaded the bike for a spin around town.

Being on my bike brings me joy. There’s a kind of freedom and rhythm to it that nothing else matches. I wasn’t the only one out enjoying the day—downtown Salida was filled with cyclists, joggers, and dog walkers. What I love is that the main highway bypasses downtown, leaving the heart of town relaxed and human-scale. It sits right alongside the Arkansas River, which, by the way, has its own built-in whitewater park. I watched a surfer carving the standing wave while I walked the river trail.

Salida ticks a lot of boxes: there’s a Natural Grocers with a strong organic produce section (plus a Safeway and a Walmart), but beyond that, very few big-box distractions. I spent part of the afternoon driving through surrounding neighborhoods and even up into the hills to scout out a few properties. Most of the homes I saw sat on one- to two-acre lots—an appealing size—and while inventory was limited, I took mental notes for the future.

After a couple of days without a shower, I set out to find one. I first headed to the Aquatic Center, which offers a $12 day pass that includes showers—but it was closed for annual maintenance. I considered a campground, but while sitting in a café, I stumbled across great reviews for a small, family-run motel right across the street. Bonus: it had a sauna.

I booked a night, and the place didn’t disappoint. The staff were welcoming, and the sauna was exactly what I needed—a traditional dry sauna with the option to pour water over the hot stones for a blast of steam. I reserved a session and left feeling human again.

Dinner was just a few steps away. A little Mexican restaurant two doors down caught my eye, especially the sign in the window boasting the best margaritas in Salida. Naturally, I had to investigate. The verdict? Solid. Just tequila, Cointreau, and lime—clean, simple, no sugary mixers. Just the way I like it.

It’s good to be back in Salida. Some towns leave a mark.