Crossing Monarch Pass and Moving West

Before leaving Salida, I took full advantage of the crisp morning air and cool mountain weather with one final ride up the mountain and back. Strangely, the climb felt easier today—maybe my legs are getting stronger after one day of hill training.

Heading west toward Gunnison means crossing Monarch Pass. As I crested the summit, I was reminded of my last time over that pass—coming the opposite direction, on a fully loaded bike during my Great Divide mountain bike ride. A snowstorm was hammering down, and I remember the climb feeling endless. Cars passed me slowly, some drivers honking their horns in encouragement, a sound I remember with surprising fondness. Today, I saw a woman climbing the same pass, also with a fully loaded bikepacking rig. I gave her a toot of the horn as I went by, and she gave a wave in return.

The stretch of Highway 50 leading into Gunnison was surprisingly serene—light traffic and a lush, peaceful valley lined with farms, creeks, and marshy wetlands. Even though Gunnison sits at over 7,500 feet, it feels relatively flat compared to surrounding mountain towns. The mountain views are stunning, but at this point in life, I’m not looking to conquer endless climbs on a bike. I find myself drawn more to open flats and rolling hills.

Gunnison itself has a quaint, walkable downtown and a well-stocked natural grocery store—always a sign of a town with a conscious, health-minded population. It’s small, but it has a strong cycling culture with several nearby trail systems. In winter, residents head up to Crested Butte for skiing, but Gunnison itself is known for its long, frigid winters. Despite its size, real estate prices are steep, likely due to limited inventory and high demand.

After exploring Gunnison, I continued west to Montrose—and almost immediately, it felt different in all the right ways. With a population around 20,000, it strikes a comfortable balance: not too big, not too small. The area benefits from snowmelt flowing down from the surrounding mountains, and some residents even have water rights. As a result, the landscape here is remarkably green and fertile.

A river winds through town, flanked by a bike trail, and there are several additional trail systems nearby. It’s clear that outdoor life is woven into the fabric of this place. Tonight, I’m set up in a dispersed BLM campsite, feeling grateful—for the road, the freedom, and the unfolding sense of possibility. 

Morning ride

One of the many trail systems in Gunnison

One of several trail systems around Montrose

BLM dispersed camping. Free.