Sunrise in the San Juans and a Warm Welcome to Montrose
I woke up early enough to catch the first light cresting over the mountains to the east--a soft, golden glow spilling over the ridges and welcoming in the day. My morning mission was to make it down to Montrose in time for a 7:40 a.m. telemedicine check-in with my primary care doctor. Since I'd been camping off-grid, I needed a reliable cell signal.
Before the call, I stopped at a local coffee shop for a café americano--just enough warmth and caffeine to get me centered for the appointment. Afterward, I headed to Baldridge Park, a large and vibrant community space in the heart of Montrose. It's an expansive park with soccer fields, baseball diamonds, and the Uncompahgre River running right through it. There's even a river play park with Class I and II rapids for kayakers, along with a dog park and a mix of paved and unpaved trails. The place was already alive with early risers walking dogs and enjoying the cool morning air.
That's where I met Margaret, a local dog walker accompanied by her energetic "Spanish mutt," Lolo, whom she adopted while living in Versailles, France. She and her husband moved back to the States with their two teenage kids three years ago and chose Montrose as home. She invited me to walk with her, and we struck up an easy conversation about life in the area.
Margaret and her husband are avid outdoor enthusiasts. Between biking, hiking, and all forms of skiing--downhill, cross-country, and backcountry--they've found Montrose to be a recreation paradise with access in all four directions. She described it as a quieter hub with proximity to big adventures.
She also shared that Montrose Airport has the second-largest tarmac in Colorado, behind only Denver, making it surprisingly easy to travel in and out. Most of her flights connect through Denver and go just about anywhere from there. Winters here, she said, are relatively mild. Snow might fall, but it tends to melt off quickly, and lingering ice isn't usually a concern.
We also talked about healthcare--something that's top of mind for me lately. Margaret said the local health system is exceptional, one of the best in Colorado. Her mother, a microbiologist, lives in Montrose and is equally impressed with the level of care available.
Margaret explained how a reservoir in the nearby mountains stores snowmelt, feeding the valley's river and canal systems. That water eventually makes its way into the Colorado River at Grand Junction. She also mentioned the weekend farmers' market, which features local produce, and said they regularly shop at Natural Grocers for organic staples.
She drew a comparison between Montrose and Durango, her other favorite town in Colorado. Both are similar in size, but Durango, she said, has a more refined, upscale feel, while Montrose leans more "cowboy." It was a great conversation, and I left the park feeling intrigued about Montrose's potential as a future home base.
I swung by the Community Recreation Center, which is impressive and clearly a focal point for the community. It features lap lanes, a full gym, rock climbing, pickleball courts, and a large space that was hosting a yoga class during my visit.
Before leaving Montrose, I made one last stop at a local bike shop--and I'm glad I did. I met Mike, a friendly and passionate cyclist who gave me a detailed rundown of the cycling scene in and around the area. Originally from Ohio, Mike moved to Montrose specifically for the cycling. He'd done his research and knew this town had something special--and now, after hearing from him, I understand why.
Mike pulled out a local trail map and grabbed a highlighter. He marked out several routes for me to consider--ranging from smooth pavement rides to scenic gravel loops that weave through the surrounding landscapes.
He also told me about the regular group rides organized twice a week by the local cycling community. These rides are open and welcoming, catering to a mix of abilities, and they've become a cornerstone of the cycling culture here. Mike clearly loves the camaraderie and energy of the Montrose cycling scene, and that passion was contagious.
Before continuing my journey south, I made a stop at Ridgway Reservoir. The views were stunning, but I couldn't help noticing how low the water line was. I struck up a conversation with a park ranger who confirmed that this year's snowpack has been very light, and as a result, the reservoir is unusually low. It was a sobering reminder of the ongoing water issues affecting the West.
By midday, temperatures were already climbing into the upper 70s--remarkably warm for early May at this elevation. From there, I headed south on Highway 550, a spectacular route that winds through the mountain towns of Ouray and Silverton. Ouray had that classic Old West feel--when I stopped into a local grocery store, a couple of shoppers were wearing cowboy boots and hats. Silverton still holds on to its historic mining-town character, and I took a slow drive through its rustic downtown before continuing toward Durango.
My final stop for the day was the home of my friends Steve and Lori, who relocated from Bend to Durango three years ago. I'm incredibly grateful for their hospitality and for letting me use their home as a launching pad to explore the area. Durango has been near the top of our relocation list for some time. I've followed the real estate market here closely and watched countless videos about the recreational opportunities in the region.
Rucking it through the park
Very nice community recreation center
I love me some lap pool lanes.
Most of the snow is gone and it’s only May. Yikes!